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1. BEST TELESCOPE FOR ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY WITH NIKON D610 ISO
2. BEST TELESCOPE FOR ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY WITH NIKON D610 PROFESSIONAL
3. BEST TELESCOPE FOR ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY WITH NIKON D610 FREE

BEST TELESCOPE FOR ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY WITH NIKON D610 FREE

The free Lee Stopper app is a great way of calculating and timing long exposures with 6-, 10- and 15-stop ND filters.Ī long-exposure ND filter that blocks 10 stops of light is a must-have accessory if you would like to be able to shoot ultra-long exposures. Keeping your camera completely still during long exposures is imperative for sharp shots. If you are shooting exposures longer than 30sec you’ll need a shutter remote to hold the shutter open manually in Bulb mode. So why is it so important not to let light enter the viewfinder during daytime long exposures? It’s because when enough light enters the viewfinder, it finds its way to the sensor, and over the course of the exposure creates a light leak in the image – reminiscent of light leaks you’d get as a result of damaged film canisters.

BEST TELESCOPE FOR ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY WITH NIKON D610 PROFESSIONAL

Some professional DSLRs have a viewfinder curtain built-in, so you simply have to flick a switch to engage it. The easiest mistake to make when shooting with a long-exposure filter such as the Big Stopper during the day is not to put a cover over your viewfinder. Problems using Big Stoppers with landscape shots

Press start and release the shutter at the same time, locking the shutter button on the remote until the timer comes to an end. Then click on the timer to time the exposure. Using the Lee Stopper app, select the filter and dial in the shutter speed for a ‘normal’ exposure the app will calculate exposure. Slot the long-exposure filter into the first filter slot or screw it on to the lens.

BEST TELESCOPE FOR ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY WITH NIKON D610 ISO

Make a note of the shutter speed and set the camera to Bulb mode at f/11 and ISO 100. Take a test shot and adjust exposure until everything is correct. Now manually focus one-third of the distance into the scene and set the aperture to f/11 and ISO 100 in aperture-priority mode. Attach your camera to your tripod, compose and use any ND grads you would normally need but position the grad in the second, rather than first filter slot. Minimalism is a popular approach when shooting long exposures. To achieve a sharp shot, it was necessary to wait until the scene was free of people and that no one was walking past the camera during the exposure.

If people are walking through the scene, they’re often not captured, but anyone standing still or moving slowly can be, so timing is everything. Camera shake can also occur if you’re shooting on unstable ground and people walk past the camera, which is what happened in the image above.Ī second problem in the image above is that stationary as well as slow-moving people have been captured as ghosts despite the long exposure. This is why it’s important to attach your camera to a tripod and use a shutter remote to fire the shutter.

It’s certainly not the type of blur you’re aiming for with the long-exposure technique. Nikon D610, 16-35mm, 30sec at f/16, ISO 100 1) Common landscape problemsĬamera shake is movement of the camera that’s captured in the image and results in blur.